Natural Pet Skincare — Where Science Meets Nature

Soap, Shampoo or Shampoo Bars: How to Bathe Your Dog

Soap, liquid shampoo, or a natural shampoo bar — what's actually in each one, and which is the right choice for bathing your dog without damaging their skin.

Soap, liquid shampoo, or a solid shampoo bar — what’s the difference, and what should you actually use on your dog? A short history, an honest look at the ingredient lists, and a sensible answer.

What the customer wants vs. what the manufacturer wants

We want to get our pets clean without irritating or drying out their skin. We want a healthy, shiny coat. We don’t want to spend a fortune, we’d like it to be greener if possible, and we’d prefer the bottle wasn’t another piece of plastic going into landfill.

That’s the customer’s view.

The manufacturer’s view is different. Mass-market shampoo brands need production costs as low as possible, dilution ratios as high as possible, competitive price points, multiple “flavours” to occupy maximum shelf space, and high profit margins. Most shampoos on the supermarket shelf are not built around what we want or need — they’re built around what’s cheap to make and easy to sell.

So let’s go a little deeper. What’s actually in soap, what’s in shampoo, and what’s the difference?

A very short history of soap

Soap is roughly 5,000 years old. The first soap-like substance was reportedly made in Babylon from animal fat (tallow) and stored in a clay cylinder — almost certainly an accidental discovery, and one the entire world should be grateful for. (Imagine being stuck in a lift with strangers who’d never encountered soap.)

Humans, being inventive, ran with it. Over the millennia we’ve produced:

  • Castile soap — made with olive oil
  • Floating soap — whipped through with air bubbles
  • Glycerine soap
  • French-milled, scented, soap-on-a-rope, and dozens more variations

In 1865, William Shepphard patented liquid soap. It took another century to reach the mainstream — Minnetonka Corporation introduced liquid soap to consumers in 1980 and held a near-monopoly for years by buying up the entire supply of the plastic pumps needed to dispense it.

Colgate Palmolive eventually bought Minnetonka’s liquid soap business, and an industry was born: liquid hand soap, liquid dishwasher detergents, liquid shampoos, liquid cleaners of every kind. Including the bottles of dog, cat and horse shampoo lining the shelves today.

What’s actually in liquid soap?

Here’s a typical ingredient panel from a major manufacturer’s liquid soap:

Water, Ammonium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, Magnesium Isododecylbenzenesulfonate, Lauramidopropylamine Oxide, SD Alcohol 3-A, Sodium Xylenesulfonate, Sodium Chloride, Fragrance, Pentasodium Pentetate, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Bisulfite, D&C Orange No. 4, Triclosan 0.12%.

Read it aloud. Does it make you want to smear it on yourself?

What’s in a typical liquid shampoo?

Here’s a popular shampoo from the same major company:

Water, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Cocamide MEA, Glycol Distearate, Dimethicone, Fragrance, Panthenol, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Benzoate, Ammonium Xylenesulfonate, Disodium EDTA, PEG-7M, Citric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.

You be the judge of the difference. Both are essentially synthetic detergent systems with added perfume, dye and preservative.

What’s in a good old-fashioned bar soap?

Here’s one of the top-rated traditional soaps:

Saponified Coconut and Palm oils, Sage Extract, Rosemary Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lemongrass Oil.

Bear in mind that plenty of commercial bar soaps still contain a long list of synthetic ingredients. But genuinely good-quality soaps are simple — a handful of ingredients, most of them recognisable as plants or oils.

The principle

If you’re going to put something on or in your pet, you should feel obligated to understand what those things are and what they do.

One caveat we have added to that, having since done the work. “Short list of recognisable things” is a decent heuristic for a dog shampoo, for reasons that are specific to dogs: the coat is hard to rinse clean, the dog licks what is left, and a dog with skin disease gets bathed two or three times a week rather than occasionally. What it is not is a safety test. An ingredient is not dangerous because it has four syllables, and some of the short, natural-sounding ingredient lists in this category are less well characterised than the long chemical ones. Parabens are the clearest example — we spent years listing them as something to avoid, and the evidence does not support that. Parabens and SLS in dog shampoo sets out what we got wrong and what the replacements cost.

For a dog with sensitive skin or an active skin condition, the choice is straightforward. A clean shampoo bar — or a sulphate-free liquid shampoo built on plant oils — does the cleaning job without stripping the skin’s defences. A typical supermarket dog shampoo is just a detergent in a plastic bottle.

Until next time, keep it clean.

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For help choosing the right shampoo for your dog’s skin, email customerservice@dermagic.eu or call +44 7425 388643.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between soap and shampoo?
Traditional soap is made by saponifying oils or fats — a simple chemical reaction that produces a cleansing solid. Most modern liquid shampoos and liquid soaps are detergent-based, built from synthetic surfactants like sulphates rather than saponified oils. The ingredient lists tell the real story — short and recognisable for traditional soap, long and chemical-heavy for typical liquid shampoo.
Are shampoo bars actually better for dogs?
A well-made natural shampoo bar is usually a much shorter ingredient list than a typical liquid shampoo — often just saponified vegetable oils and one or two essential oils. That means fewer synthetic detergents, fewer preservatives, no plastic bottle, and no need for a separate conditioner. For dogs with sensitive skin, it’s the cleaner choice.
What ingredients should I avoid in a dog shampoo?
The ones with an actual allergy record: methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone, formaldehyde releasers such as DMDM hydantoin and quaternium-15, synthetic fragrance, and artificial dyes (D&C colourants). We previously listed parabens here and have removed them — parabens have one of the lowest sensitisation rates of any preservative in use, and the ingredients that replaced them after the paraben scare did measurably more harm. We have also dropped ‘chemicals you can’t pronounce’, which sounds sensible and is not a safety test. Judge a preservative on its data, not its syllables.
How often should I bathe my dog?
It depends entirely on whether the skin is healthy or diseased, and we used to answer this badly. For a healthy dog, bathe when the dog is dirty — there is no magic monthly interval, and we have withdrawn the claim that routine bathing triggers skin conditions. For a dog with greasy or scaling skin, frequent bathing is the part of topical care with the strongest evidence behind it: two or three baths a week is an ordinary veterinary dermatology starting point, and stretching the gaps to protect the coat is a common reason a regimen appears not to work.
Where can I find a dog shampoo with a clean ingredient list?
DERMagic’s bars are saponified organic oils with essential oils for scent — no sulphates, no parabens, no synthetic dyes or fragrances, and no water, so no preservative is needed at all. Two corrections to how this answer used to read. We have dropped ’therapeutic’ from ’therapeutic essential oils’, because they contribute scent and we cannot show more than that. And it is not true that both products have short lists: the liquid Peppermint & Tea Tree shampoo runs to twenty-four ingredients, four of them synthetic, and we publish the full label in our guide to the shampoo and conditioner. The bar is the one with the short list.